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Christmas

Venezuelan Christmas Food, the Whole Christmas Eve Plate

Hallacas, ham bread, chicken salad, pernil and the December sweets, with a make-ahead plan you can follow from any kitchen.

A Venezuelan Christmas dinner is served on a single plate, the plato navideño: an unwrapped hallaca, a slice of pan de jamón, a spoonful of chicken salad and slices of roast pork leg. The big meal is on Christmas Eve, December 24, and many families serve the same plate again on New Year's Eve. Dessert is candied green papaya, black cake or quesillo, and the toast is ponche crema, a rum eggnog.

The hallaca is the dish people search for. Think of a large, flat tamal: corn dough colored orange with annatto, filled with a stew of beef, pork and chicken, topped with olives, capers and raisins, wrapped in plantain leaf and boiled. Families make them together days before Christmas, in an assembly line where everyone has a job, and keep them in the fridge or freezer until dinner.

Planning a Latin Christmas with other flavors? See Mexican Christmas, Colombian Christmas or the general guide to Christmas recipes.

Make-ahead plan for a Venezuelan Christmas dinner

Built around dinner on the evening of December 24. For New Year's Eve, shift the December 21-24 steps by a week and make fresh ponche crema and papaya dessert.

  1. Late November. Start soaking the dried fruit for the Venezuelan black cake in rum and sweet wine; it needs at least 7 days before baking.
  2. Early December. Bake the black cake (2½ hours) and brush it with liquor. Feed it a spoonful more on December 8, 15 and 21, then leave it alone on the 22nd and 23rd.
  3. A weekend in mid-December. Hallaca weekend. Day one: chop and marinate the stew, 30 minutes of work and 24 hours in the fridge. Day two: stew, leaves, dough, assembly and a 90-minute boil, about five and a half hours. Cooking alone, split it over three days. Cooked and still in the leaf, they freeze for 3 months; made on the 20th or later, the fridge is enough (they keep 4 days).
  4. December 20, evening. If your pork leg is frozen, move it to the fridge: allow about one day per 5 lb (2.3 kg).
  5. December 21 or 22. Make the green papaya dessert; it improves in the fridge. On the 22nd, score the pork skin and rub on the marinade (25 minutes).
  6. December 23. Bake the ham bread so the oven is free tomorrow, cook the ponche crema in the afternoon and make the quesillo. Cook the hen and vegetables for the salad and store them separately. Leave the pork skin-side up and uncovered in the fridge so the skin dries.
  7. December 24. The pork goes in the oven about six and a half hours before dinner (2:30 p.m. for a 9 p.m. meal). Two to three hours before eating, dress the salad. At the end, hallacas go into boiling water, 30 minutes from frozen or about 20 from the fridge, and the ham bread gets 10 minutes at 320°F (160°C).
  8. December 25. Breakfast is leftover pork in a crusty roll, and the hen broth makes a soup.

The four dishes on the Christmas plate

Venezuelan hallacas are the centerpiece and the hardest part, mostly because of volume: one batch is 40. In the US, look for precooked white corn flour (masarepa, such as P.A.N.) in the Latin aisle, never cornmeal or masa harina, and frozen plantain leaves in Latin or Asian freezer cases. Mini sweet peppers with a pinch of sugar stand in for ají dulce, and annatto seeds steeped in lard give the color.

Venezuelan pernil is the easiest way to feed a crowd: about 55 minutes of work over three days. Ask for a fresh ham (raw, uncured pork leg) in the US, often only to order around the holidays, or a skin-on leg of pork in the UK, not gammon. Pan de jamón is a soft rolled bread filled with ham, bacon, raisins and olives, the one dish that needs some baking confidence. Venezuelan chicken salad, with potato, carrot, peas and apple in mayo, is the easy, cold side; a stewing hen (fowl in the US, boiling fowl in the UK) is traditional, and a whole chicken works.

No time for hallacas this year

Without a free weekend for hallacas, the plate still works with pernil, ham bread and chicken salad, all of which fit in the week of the dinner. For a different roast, Venezuelan asado negro, beef braised in dark caramel, is cooked the day before and only needs reheating and slicing. For New Year's Eve, Venezuelan pasticho, a lasagna with béchamel, ham and cheese, serves 10 and can be assembled the night before.

Venezuelan Christmas desserts

Dulce de lechosa is the Christmas sweet: strips of unripe papaya in a dark brown-sugar syrup with cloves, eaten cold from small dishes. Asian grocers sell green papaya for Thai salads, and Mexican piloncillo replaces the Venezuelan papelón. Torta negra is the most relaxed choice if you start early, since it is baked weeks ahead and slices into 20 thin pieces. Quesillo, a flan with tiny holes, is made the day before and tastes better on day two.

For a longer dessert table, bienmesabe, a coconut cream trifle, is assembled the day before except for the meringue; cabello de ángel keeps for weeks in the fridge; and coconut kisses last several days in a tin, which makes them good for gifting.

Venezuelan green papaya dessert, dulce de lechosa recipeDesserts

Venezuelan green papaya dessert, dulce de lechosa recipe

Dulce de lechosa, Venezuela's Christmas dessert of green papaya strips candied in piloncillo syrup with cloves, off the heat at 223°F (106°C). Makes 3 lb (1.4 kg), 14 servings, in 3½ hours, with or without pickling lime and how to gift it.

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Venezuelan Black Cake (Torta Negra), Rum-Soaked Fruit CakeDesserts

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Cabello de angel, Venezuelan spaghetti squash candy

Cabello de angel is Venezuelan candied squash: strands of figleaf gourd or spaghetti squash cooked in their own weight of sugar to 220°F (104°C). Makes 3½ lb, 16 servings, in 4 hours, with cinnamon and cloves; costs, storage and gifting.

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Coconut Kisses, Venezuelan Besitos de Coco with Cane Sugar

Venezuelan coconut kisses, besitos de coco, made with a spiced syrup of 17.6 oz (500 g) papelón and one fresh coconut, baked at 350°F (180°C). Makes 30 in 130 minutes, with macaroon differences, coconut swaps, storage and cost.

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Christmas drinks

Ponche crema is Venezuela's eggnog, made with condensed milk and rum and cooked to 160°F (71°C) so the eggs are safe. Make it the day before and serve it cold in small glasses; one bottle from the same pot can skip the rum for kids. It keeps 3 to 4 days, so New Year's Eve needs a fresh batch. For a hot-weather party, tizana, a fruit punch you eat with a spoon, is the alcohol-free option.

December 25 and the leftovers

Christmas morning means pork sandwiches: shred the cold pernil, warm it with its pan sauce and pile it into a crusty roll with tomato and, if you like, guasacaca, Venezuela's avocado sauce. More leftover pork fills Venezuelan arepas. Spare hallacas go back into boiling water for about 20 minutes, and the chicken salad is eaten cold, never reheated.

Frequently asked questions

What do Venezuelans eat for Christmas dinner?

The plato navideño: hallaca, pan de jamón (ham bread), chicken salad and roast pork leg, served together on Christmas Eve and often again on New Year's Eve. Dessert is green papaya in syrup, black cake or quesillo, with ponche crema to drink.

What is a hallaca?

A Venezuelan Christmas tamal: corn dough colored with annatto, filled with a marinated beef, pork and chicken stew plus olives, capers and raisins, wrapped in plantain leaf, tied and boiled for 90 minutes. It is flat and rectangular, and the olives, capers and raisins go on top of the stew rather than mixed in.

How far ahead can you make hallacas?

Cooked and still in their leaves, they keep 4 days in the fridge and 3 months in the freezer, so many families make them on a weekend in mid-December and freeze them. Reheat in boiling water for 30 minutes from frozen or about 20 from the fridge, until the center reaches 165°F (74°C).

Can I substitute corn husks for plantain leaves?

Not really. Husks are too small to wrap a hallaca and add none of the aroma the leaf gives the dough. Frozen plantain leaves from Latin or Asian grocers work just as well as fresh: thaw, wipe and pass them briefly over a flame.

What can I make the day before a Venezuelan Christmas dinner?

The ham bread, quesillo, ponche crema and the cooked parts of the chicken salad, stored separately. The pork can even be roasted on the 23rd and reheated covered, with 15 minutes at high heat to re-crisp the skin. Only dressing the salad should wait for the 24th.